Stardust is one of the popular outdoor rock climbing destination in UAE (United arab emirates). Stardust is one of the best outdoor climbing destination near to Dubai, just 2 hours travel from Dubai. This article will cover the details of stardust climbing destination in UAE.
“Mountains are not fair or unfair, they are just dangerous.”
– Reinhold Messner
Warning ! : Rock climbing is an Adventure sport. It is a serious business. You should be well trained and aware of the potential risk/dangers associated with rock climbing. Always use standard safety gears, practice standard safety procedures and methods. Any incidents can cause serious injury or death.
History : Ras-Al-Khaimah
Ras-Al-Khaima and Jebel Jais are the two name always pop up in mind for those who are into outdoors. Jabal Jais, on the city’s outskirts, is the highest peak in the UAE, at 1,934m, and is home to the world’s longest zipline.
Since Ras-Al-Khaimah, also know as RAK is an established UAE climbing destination, this particular wadi was developed recently by 2015. Before climbers were fully depending upon the Hatta Crag and Wave Wall. When those became inaccessible, a group of climbers sought new sport climbing destinations within UAE. They discovered the towering wadi, in the area by mere accident. The discovery of this wadi was coincided with the untimely passing of David Bowie. In his honor they named this wadi as Stardust. There have been continuous ad persistent efforts since, of setting new routes in this arena. The former UAE Bolting Fund and individual donations have generously supported the route setting efforts.
Warning: Loose rocks!. Always wear helmet.
These limes stones are kind of soft and might fall down while you are holding or stepping. So the climber and belayer must wear a helmet. Refrain from roaming around right below the climbing area.
The Location: Stardust
The location stardust, is also know as Wadi Rahbeh is located bit far from the main road approximately 4 kms. The road is not suitable for sedan and can be accessed by only using a 4 wheel drive or SUV with good ground clearance. The road to this wadi is often washed off after a rain. Wadi is approximately 30 m wide and 400 m long after the goat farm climbing area.
Most families that leave at the entrance of the wadi are of the Rihab clan thus the local name for the wadi.
There are nice solid lime stone rock walls on both sides of this wadi with varied angles and breakages. The rock is limestone with varied levels of weathering. There is always a chance for unpredictable rock falls due to loose and weathering of the rocks over a period of time. Please be alert around the whole climbing area and it is advised to wear helmet if you are anywhere near the walls while someone is climbing up. You can go for a hiking into the canyon upstream if you are bored sitting there. An hours walk or so towards the big wall in front of the wadi has a natural spring used by the locals. This is also a popular hiking trail and you can see some fellow hikers on the route. But its not so popular.
The area is being used by the locals for their farming. Even though they are more than happy to welcome us, you should keep you cool and respect to the private properties around the wadi entrance. You are obliged and thankful for this wonderful area, and should preserve its authentic look and feel. You should not indulge in any activities that may create disturbance to the neighborhood. Some of the examples are like loud music, shouting, noise, littering etc. Try not to disturb the farm animals as they might wander around the location and they might cross the road in front of you cars.
Stardust : Topo
Stardust is being maintained & developed Ludmil Trenkov for many years. He is one of the key member in bringing the place to a wonderful outdoor climbing park.
With his personal note shared in Facebook, here you can download the amazing document created by him – latest Topos for Stardust.
Find Stardust on 27crags here : Stardust rock climbing UAE.
Check list: Climbing
Before heading to any outdoor destination, have a look at our complete extensive check list so that you will not forget anything before leaving home.
Stardust: Approach
Take this exit from E11 to small local community area. Turn at 25.930735, 56.057935 (after the sign for RAK Maritime City)
Go straight until u reach a T junction. From the T junction take the right and go further until you reach this point at 25.927978, 56.066873 which will lead tot he open Wadi.
There might be a chance that the roads are all washed off, so next point is the final location. If you can’t find a road, you can continue by walking to the final location as attached below.
After the wadi entrance approximately 3 km, you will reach a goat farm on your right. Proceed forward as you keep to the right side of the wadi. Approx. 100 m after the goat-farm you will see Sector 1 on your right. Park anywhere you feel comfortable (be aware of falling rocks)
Salient features of stardust.
• Sport Climbing
This place is suitable for sport climbing. There are many routes which is already set by our pioneers in this wall and these routes are starting from level 5a all the way up to 7c.
• Trad Climbing
Trad climbing is possible in this area, But not likely recommended to do as the rock might not hold as we expect. These rock are solid but the edges might weather off when under excessive pressure.
• Vertical cave training and rope work
There is an Official outdoor training area for MECET caving club of Dubai. We as a public community prefer to refrain from using their area as a common understanding.
• Rappelling / Abseiling
The small height can be easily accesses by steep hikes. from which you can find nice good ledges where anchors can be placed and do the abseiling. But is has not been explored much as its not in out primary interest list.
• Hiking
This wadi extends all the way inside to the mountain ranges. Its a hiking route as well. You might encounter fellow hiker in the way.
Weather conditions.
Stardust is located in Ras Al Khaima approximately 1 km from the coastal area. As normal in UAE the outdoor season is from late September to March when the weather condition is on the colder side.
The rainy days are big No No. DO NOT attempt to go anywhere near wadi’s on rainy days. The comfortable camping season is October to March as usual. Humidity is very unpredictable and it changes with wind. The north wall goes in shade around at 10 AM in the winter. Most of the climbing sector will remain in shade through iut the day as the three sides are covered with tall mountain. It is good practice to wait a day before climbing if it had rained the previous day.
To get the current weather forecast for the area. click here or you can get it from here also.
A Suggested Users’ Guide for Stardust.
Stardust currently stands as the most visited climbing crag in the UAE, which was exactly the intention of the UAE Bolting Fund: To find a crag in the UAE that had potential for many routes, of many different grades, for the community to enjoy. We are glad that we found it and we are thankful to the few who have put their time, energy, and money into developing Stardust into what it has become.
With this growing popularity, Stardust is also facing new challenges. It is our common and individual responsibility to mitigate these issues. If you come to Stardust to enjoy its magic, you are responsible for preserving the magic too.
THE PRINCIPLES ARE: BE SAFE, BE KIND, BE RESPECTFUL.
These are not rules, but rather an appeal to each visitor to use their common sense, to learn about climbing safety, to adopt a respectful climbing and camping etiquette and to become positive members of the UAE climbing community.
Be Safe
1 – Learn, practice and teach safe climbing techniques. You, your partner and all the climbers around you will benefit from it. If you don’t do it for you, do it for the rest of us. A severe accident at the crag will jeopardize the access to climbers to this area.
2 – Share positive recommendations for safety. If you see someone being unsafe, kindly suggest a safer way of doing things. If someone suggests a safer way to you, listen up and take mental notes. There are many right ways, try to find the safest.
3 – Life savers for Stardust:
- Wear a helmet (leaders, belayers, spectators). One of the leading causes for rock climbing fatalities is trauma to the head, which can be greatly mitigated by wearing a helmet, especially during a head-first fall or due to rock fall (which is common at this crag).
- Bring the right equipment. Make sure your rope is long enough and you have enough draws (some climbs at Stardust are longer than your usual 30m13bolt sport route).
- Partner-check and self “double-check” before starting the climb, at anchor, and during lowering/rappel.
4-Check weather forecasts. Have emergency numbers with you (they are included at the end of the topo), have an action plan, carry a first aid kit, and earn/update your first aid techniques.
5-Learn/refresh rescue and self-rescue techniques for climbers, especially if you are venturing into the multi-pitch territory.
Be Kind.
1 – Look around you. You are not alone at Stardust and each individual at the crag deserves to have a positive experience.
2 – Don’t hog routes. You may not be the only one working on that project. Communicate and share with others.
3 – Keep noise levels down during the day. Climbers and belayers need to clearly communicate commands to each other. If you like a soundtrack for your send, ask around if it is ok to have music at a low volume.
4 – Keep quiet hours at night. Climbers need to rest, locals and their goats need calm, and wildlife lives here. You are a guest to a public natural space, be a good guest.
5 – Share Stardust! Bring your friends and new climbers, just take it upon you to pass these principles along to them, so Startdust and the UAE climbing community keep on thriving.
Be Respectful.
1 – Respect nature or go home. Bring your own firewood, avoid littering, and use the restrooms.
2 – Respect local residents. They have agreed to us developing their land for our recreational use and have even provided some infrastructure for our benefit and comfort. They deserve nothing but our utmost respect: Keep noise levels down, observe quiet hours at night, and avoid disturbing their goats (keep dogs on leash if they can’t help themselves). DO NOT turn Stardust into a“party campsite”. The owners of the land have opened their doors to climbers, in return we promised to respect the place. These doors can easily close if we betray that agreement.
3 – Respect infrastructure. Avoid pitching your tent in the gazebo/common area. Conserve water (short showers, effective dishwashing). Pack-out your own trash bags (the canister in place is only for small items, it is not meant for general garbage collection). Keep the bathrooms clean.
4 – Respect the developers’ vision. Check in with them before bolting. Use the crag for climbing and caving practice only. Stardust is not meant to be a campsite for large groups that just want to hang out (nothing wrong with that, this is just not the place).
5 -If you are profiting from courses at the crag, contributing in whatever way
you can: Donating bolts or engaging in community service. Be part of good
Karma.
Amenities, restaurants and cafe.
There is no other facilities other than a public toilet facility in the vicinity that was established in year 2018 by the government with the help and support of the neighbor farm owner. It is a state-of-the-art facility for the benefit of the wadi visitors and we would like to keep it that way. They feature western style toilets, water tank, showers, interior lighting controlled by motion detection and adjacent rest shed. There is a long stairway all the way up to the cave with a viewing deck there.
If you want to have food for the day. It will be a god idea to pack everything from home and bring it here as there is no shops or groceries near by.